I’m going to guess what you’re thinking. And you’re right, Yellowstone is very cold in winter. In fact, blizzard conditions are a possibility. But I’m not going to bury the lead here. Visiting Yellowstone National Park in February was ABSOLUTELY worth it for me! And I’d go back again without question.
Some Backstory
I’d been to Yellowstone twice before. The first time was summer 2003 during a cross-country road trip from South Carolina with a boyfriend. I was 23 with minimal funds and this was a classic, cheap-enough trip that got me to several National Parks – Gateway Arch, Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Zion, Grand Canyon and Petrified Forest. Why we skipped so many of the other Utah NPs, I can’t recall. Maybe time? Regardless, this trip cemented my love affair with Yellowstone, and National Parks in general. In fact, I’m typing this from Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The second trip to Yellowstone was with my parents, husband and 3yo in the summer of 2019. And while four of us flew, my dad drove from the East Coast and hauled all our camping gear with him. Three cheers for Dad! What stood out most from this trip was seeing 14 bears in 48 hours. I was in heaven!
Bison and elk and bears, oh my!
Thinking of all those bears reminds me I should probably pause here to explain why I love Yellowstone so much. THE WILDLIFE! I know, I know. Yellowstone is a geothermal marvel showcasing Old Faithful, Morning Glory Pool, Grand Prismatic Spring, Mammoth Hot Springs, and many more mind-blowing features. And you should absolutely make a point to see these Yellowstone classics when you’re there! During the summer it’s easy to do on your own and during the winter many are still accessible via an organized tour or even snowshoeing.
But back to the animals. Yellowstone is famous for its bison, bears, big horn sheep, mountain goats, pronghorn, and elk – all of which are seen often and without having to trek into the wilderness. Just google Lamar Valley and you’ll see they weren’t joking when they nicknamed it the American Serengeti. I’ve seen moose from my car on a few occasions as well. But Yellowstone is also widely known for its WOLVES. And if I learned anything from my first two summer trips to Yellowstone, it’s that a wolf at 1-2 miles out surrounded by rocks, plants and trees is nearly impossible to find unless you’re a professional or stumble upon a lucky group that already spotted it with a scope. And it’s made even more impossible if you are with, say, a 3yo or any other person who isn’t excited about standing in one spot, in the summer sun, staring at a landscape for a long time just… waiting. Turns out some people don’t think this is fun.
An intro to the wolves of Yellowstone National Park
Wolves are a keystone species of Yellowstone, one that is critical to the stability of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem. They were intentionally eradicated from the park in the 1920s and in the absence of these carnivores, the elk and bison populations boomed. Such an increase in these herbivores meant a decrease in the plants they rapidly consumed. These plants happened to also be the plants that stabilized the riverbeds and provided habitats for other animals. Without those plants, the rivers began to straighten and quicken which then altered the sediment in the water column changing the habitat for fish and other animals. Essentially, without the wolves, much of the ecosystem collapsed.
Fortunately, in 1995 fourteen Canadian wolves were relocated to Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley. More were reintroduced the following two years. The relocations were successful, the wolf numbers grew, and the ecosystem righted itself. As of January 2023, there were at least 108 wolves in 10 packs in the park!
The bottom line here is that wolves are really really important! If you’re interested in the history of the Yellowstone wolf packs and their current status, I strongly encourage you to look into the Yellowstone Wolf Project and to check out the annual Yellowstone Wolf Report.
Yellowstone... in February though?
On our refrigerator, my family has a list of everywhere we want to go, so far. The list started with about 35 entries, and a few have been added since. One of my earliest contributions to the list was “Yellowstone Wolf Trip (Jan/Feb/Mar)”. Because after not seeing wolves twice during the summer, I knew I needed to be more intentional with my wolf-watching. I couldn’t expect a wolf was just going to jump out waving a sign saying “This way to the pack meet and greet”.
I signed up for the 4-night Winter Wolf Discovery program with Yellowstone Forever Institute and my family thought I was nuts. In fairness there was a blizzard the week before my trip. But, armed with the right gear, I was prepared and comfortable in the typically 5-20°F weather we experienced. More than once I heard the phrase “There is no bad weather, only bad gear”. And each morning when we left the cabin at 630am in single-digit temperatures, I was thankful for the winter boots and jacket I purchased pre-trip despite that jacket being the most expensive outdoor clothing I’ve ever owned.
The Program
I have no idea what other wolf-watching tour experiences are like but I can tell you about mine. I registered for this tour. (I am not sponsored by them in any way. I was just blown away by the experience and am happy to give them a shout out.) This was not a sleep-in, luxury accommodations, booze-cruise equivalent kind of vacation. We were on a mission to learn about and find wolves. It was like being back in a college class but way better because we were in the field all day.
Mornings started at 630am with a drive into Yellowstone. Our PHENOMENAL guide taught us what to look and listen for. We often watched for ravens (who might be near a carcass cached from a pre-dawn kill), then stopped and waited. While we struck out on day 1, I can vividly remember pulling over on day 3 after seeing ravens and just waiting in the 11°F purplish, pre-sunrise haze. No sound other than our boots crunching the parking lot snow and ice. But then there it was – howling! Lots of howling, from more than one wolf, in more than one place. Goosebumps! It ranks up there with the Northern Lights as one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had.
Once you hear the wolves, you then usually need a scope to spot them. With 60x scopes set up and coffee mugs nearby, we spent almost three hours on the side of the road that morning listening and, shortly thereafter, visualizing some of this particular wolf pack. Given the locations of the wolves and ravens, it seemed likely a carcass was behind the rocky outcropping they were circling. This. This was why I wanted to visit in the winter. Frigid sunrises, a snowy landscape, wolves being wolves. Basically, perfection.
We saw wolves on two of the three days we were out in the park. I think I counted 28 or 29 individual wolves over the trip, although it’s possible I saw the same wolf more than once. At one point, while watching a wolf pack, I could turn my head and also see a coyote and a pair of foxes without having to move my feet. Again, that American Serengeti vibe.
The Verdict
So what’s the bottom line, here? If I only ever had one chance to go to Yellowstone National Park, I’d probably go in the late Spring or early summer and once all the roads are open. You would be able to see the geothermal features easily and bears would be awake and on the move (some with cubs). If you are fortunate enough to be able to go a second time or if seeing a wolf is your top priority, winter is the winner! Cold be damned. Do a little online searching to make sure you find an organization that promotes education, sustainability, and preservation. Sign yourself up and have the most amazing trip! And remember, there is no bad weather, only bad gear.
*A note: I intentionally omitted specific locations and other identifying information of our wolf sightings given the existence of bad actors who may wish the wolves harm. For the sake of the ecosystem and it’s preservation please only support reputable organizations. Thanks, y’all!
